A Brief History of the Laikipiak
Maasai 
The Laikipiak Maasai
have been guardians of the Mokogodo Forest for a hundred years
and more. They are descendants of the Yaaku Tribe, who were
patronised by Arthur Neumann over the turn of the century. It
was he who discovered that this band of forest dwellers had a
language (Seiku) more similar to that of several Ethiopian
languages, Somali and Rendille tongues rather than Maa the
language of the Maasai.
They lived in caves,
foraging in the forest; bee keeping and tending goats in the low
country around the prominent hill Ol Donyo Serge, on the banks
of the Ngare Ndare River. The Yaaku became specialist elephant
hunters once the ivory trade began. They used poisoned arrows
with bows, spears and an ingenious block trap, which dropped a
heavy weight with spear attached, as the passing animal
triggered a lever. However they refused to eat the meat of
elephant because their mammary glands are arranged like human
breasts. Hyrax were their major food source.
A gang of Wakamba
tribesmen raided one of the Yaaku villages, killing many and
stealing their horde of ivory. When this news reached Neumann
(he traded ivory with the Yaaku), he set off to retrieve it for
them and to retaliate against the Wakamba on their behalf. Ten
Wakamba were killed and twelve tusks were found.
During the 1920s
their lives changed dramatically, they disowned their name,
preferring to be called the Laikipiak Maasai, they acquired
cattle by selling their daughters to neighbouring Maasai
tribesmen and they built Maasai style houses. They also adopted
Maa as their language and only a very few elders speak or even
understand Seiku now.
In the 1940s the
people of Mokogodo decided to increase their grazing in the
forest for their cattle, slashing and burning the bush thereby
creating the beautiful Andanguru Plain, which is surrounded by
pristine forest.
The Laikipiak Maasai
have shown tolerance for wildlife living alongside their cattle,
sheep and goats. The lower regions are dry, but the prolific
loimugi (neutonia hildebrandii) trees and the clean water
spring from Tossia provide succulent feed and water for
elephants and provide cover for small gazelles. The higher
slopes of the escarpment are densely forested, providing fodder
for herds of buffalo who harbour the 'red tick' which carries
'East Coast Fever' - a deadly disease when transmitted to
domestic cattle.
They have adopted a
flexible semi-nomadic lifestyle that is becoming more and more
difficult to sustain, with an increased human population, the
need for access to schooling and other services and the inflated
economic aspirations of the people. As a result, the capacity of
livestock and bee-keeping to sustain these people has reduced
and dependence on famine relief and other aid has increased.
Famine relief food can only be regarded as an emergency measure;
for without concerted efforts to build initiative it only serves
as a trap for dependence in the long term.
In order for the
Laikipiak Maasai to escape from this loss of independence it is
important for them to develop new sustainable sources of
revenue, which preferably are not dependent on the forest. They
have maintained this forest to date without burning charcoal and
no logging, except that of dead cedar to build their own homes,
schools etc.
Having witnessed the
success and been involved in the Community Lodge on the
neighbouring Il'Ngwesi Ranch, it seems that this is the obvious
way forward. The lodge has local management, which has developed
skills in the community as well as increasing their self-esteem.
We also hope that it will be the starting point for further
community projects. It would be very gratifying to see these
aspirations reflected in the people of Lekurruki. The area has
also become much more secure, being linked to that of Lewa
Wildlife Conservancy and Borana Ranch.
Such areas in Kenya are vanishing
at an astounding pace, because people are harnessing the land
for commercial use in ways which cannot sustain its natural
beauty - raping forests, charcoal burning, arable farming,
horticulture etc. Cultures are altering as a result of
materialism, since there are few profitable financial ventures
that can preserve the traditional ways of life and therefore
preserve their sense of identity.
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ACCOMMODATION
Along side game
drives, walking is the main activity in the area. With the
Northern Frontier District stretching out in front of the lodge
and the Mokogodo forest only a few minutes away, the area is
tempting for any walker.
LOCATION
Tassia is situated on the Lekurruki Community Conservation Group
Ranch between the Laikipia Plateau and the Northern Frontier
District, neighboring Il N'gwesi Group Ranch and Borana.
Solar powered electricity, with paraffin hot water heaters and a
generator for backup.
Tassia Lodge
is hosted by a team of Mukogodo (Laikipiak) Maasai from
Lekurruki Community Conservation Group Ranch. The Exclusive
use per party booking arrangement ensures that visitors have
the privacy and space to enjoy the lodge, the spectacular
scenery and the wildlife undisturbed.