| Tsavo
is a vast arid region of roughly 21,000 square kilometres (8,400
square miles) comprising a series of habitats, ranging from open
plains to savannah bushlands, semi-desert scrub, acacia
woodlands, riverine forests, palm thickets, marshlands and even
mountain forests on the Chyulu and Ngulia Hills. It is the
largest park in Kenya. The park is divided by the Nairobi-Mombasa
road and railway into two sections: the northeast of the park is
called Tsavo East and the part southwest of the road is called
Tsavo West.
Much of Tsavo West is
of recent volcanic origin and is therefore very hilly. Entering
from the Tsavo Gate, one comes across the palm-fringed Tsavo
River from where the country rises through dense shrub to the
steep, rocky Ngulia Hill which dominates the area. Volcanic
cones, rock outcrops and lava flows can be seen, the most famous
being Sheitani, a black scar of lava looking as if
it has only just cooled, near Kilaguni Serena Safari Lodge.
The famous Mzima
Springs are found in this volcanic zone. The springs
gush out 50 million gallons of water a day of which seven
million gallons are piped down to provide Mombasa with water.
The rest of the water flows into the Tsavo and Galana rivers.
The water originates in the Chyulu Hills as rain which
percolates rapidly through the porous volcanic soils.
East of the springs
(downstream) is a stand of wild date and raphia palms, the
latter with fronds of up to nine metres (30 feet). North of the
Mzima Springs are numerous extinct volcanoes, rising cone-shaped
from the plains. Majestic Mount Kilimanjaro dominates the
western horizon.
South of Mzima Springs
is the beautiful Poacher’s Lookout on the top of
a hill. The view across the plains to Kilimanjaro is worth the
trip.
Tsavo West stretches
further south to the Serengeti Plains, which, despite their
name, have nothing to do with the Serengeti National Park,
although the landscape is similar.
Baobabs, Birds and
Wildlife: Tsavo West has spectacular baobab trees, which
used to be far more numerous. In the mid- 1970s, there was an
enormous and as yet unexplained attack by elephants on baobabs.
Some claim it was because of the drought, others claim that
there were "too many" elephants. Whatever the reason
the remaining baobabs are quite safe today.
The variety and sheer
numbers of birds in Tsavo are incredible. Lake Jipe, at the
southernmost tip of the park, is surrounded by tall reeds and is
one of the most important wetlands in Kenya, providing a
sanctuary for a number of water and marsh birds, including
migrants from Europe. Some of the birds commonly seen at the
lake arc knob-billed geese, pied kingfishers, white-backed night
herons, black herons, palm-nut vultures and the African skimmer.
If you take an early
morning game drive you might catch a glimpse of another
endangered species. The few rhino left in Tsavo are protected in
a fenced sanctuary at the foot of Ngulia Hills. Other wildlife
in the park include lion, cheetah, leopard, buffalo, spotted
hyena, warthog, Maasai giraffe, kongoni, duiker, waterbuck,
klipspringer, impala, Grant's gazelle, oryx, eland and zebra.
The lions of Tsavo are legendary but after the rains, when the
grass grows very long, they are difficult to spot.
APA Houghton
Mifflin, Insight Guides “East African Wildlife © 1995 pps.
198 – 200."
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